Soul Surfer: A True Story of Faith, Family, and Fighting to Get Back on the Board
Average customer rating: 4.5 out of 5 stars
  • Soul Surfer a good easy read for early teens
  • Soul book forever!!!
  • I LOVE this book it is amazing!
  • I love this book.
  • Bethany Hamiltion Pursuing her Dream
Soul Surfer: A True Story of Faith, Family, and Fighting to Get Back on the Board
Bethany Hamilton , Sheryl Berk , and Rick Bundschuh
Manufacturer: MTV
ProductGroup: Book
Binding: Paperback

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ASIN: 1416503463

Book Description

They say Bethany Hamilton has saltwater in her veins. How else could one explain the passion that drives her to surf? How else could one explain that nothing -- not even the loss of her arm -- could come between her and the waves? That Halloween morning in Kauai, Hawaii, Bethany responded to the shark's stealth attack with the calm of a girl with God on her side. Pushing pain and panic aside, she began to paddle with one arm, focusing on a single thought: "Get to the beach...." And when the first thing Bethany wanted to know after surgery was "When can I surf again?" it became clear that her spirit and determination were part of a greater story -- a tale of courage and faith that this soft-spoken girl would come to share with the world.

Soul Surfer is a moving account of Bethany's life as a young surfer, her recovery after the attack, the adjustments she's made to her unique surfing style, her unprecedented bid for a top showing in the World Surfing Championships, and, most fundamentally, her belief in God. It is a story of girl power and spiritual grit that shows the body is no more essential to surfing -- perhaps even less so -- than the soul.

Download Description

" The amazing story of the thirteen-year-old surfer girl who lost her arm in a shark attack but never lost her faith -- and of her triumphant return to competitive surfing. They say Bethany Hamilton has saltwater in her veins. How else could one explain the tremendous passion that drives her to surf? How else could one explain that nothing -- not even the loss of her arm in a horrific shark attack -- could come between her and the waves? That Halloween morning in Kauai, Hawaii -- a glorious part of the world, where it's hard to deny the divine -- Bethany responded to the shark's stealth attack with the calm of a girl with God on her side. Pushing pain and panic aside, she immediately began to paddle with one arm, focusing on a single thought: ""Get to the beach...."" Rushed to the hospital, where her father, Tom Hamilton, was about to undergo knee surgery, Bethany found herself taking his spot in the O.R. It's the kind of coincidence that isn't mere coincidence to the Hamilton family, a clan whose motto could easily be ""the family that surfs and prays together stays together."" To them it was a sign someone had a greater plan than the one they'd been working on themselves -- which had been to scrape together whatever resources they could to help Bethany rise to the top of her sport. When the first thing Bethany wanted to know after surgery was ""When can I surf again?"" it became clear that her unfaltering spirit and determination were part of a greater story -- a tale of courage and faith that this modest and soft-spoken girl would come to share with the world. Soul Surfer is a moving account of Bethany's life as a young surfer, her recovery in the wake of the shark attack, the adjustments she's made to her unique surfing style, her unprecedented bid for a top showing in the World Surfing Championships, and, most fundamentally, her belief in God. It is a story of girl power and spiritual grit that shows that the body is no more essential to surfing -- perhaps even less so -- than the soul. "

Customer Reviews:

4 out of 5 stars Soul Surfer a good easy read for early teens.......2007-09-10

My daughter needed a book for her school's summer reading project. She picked this book off the list because she'd heard about the author who had her arm bitten off by a shark as an 11 year old, surfing. She was able to get through it quickly and she enjoyed it even though she is not an avid reader.

5 out of 5 stars Soul book forever!!!.......2007-08-14

At just 13, Bethany Hamilton lost her left arm to a tiger shark, possibly affecting her goals and achievements dramatically in her life forever. But did that stop her from surfing? Of course it didn't! Bethany has been in the water constantly ever since she knew how to swim. She says, surfing is her life and has been since she was three. Her parents have been there for her every step of the way. Bethany has two older brothers, both surfers, and a best friend named Alana, another surfer. She mentioned that without her faith in God she would have never survived and He is the reason she gets up every morning. This book really inspired me to have goals and to achieve and never give up. Bethany Hamilton is a role model to many others and I. I am glad to say that now she is a professional surfer! The sponsor that stuck with her though all the hard times was RipCurl! Bethany is a wonderful girl, daughter, sister and friend to many and I am so glad that I picked up this book and was immediately drawn to it.
Bethany throws her soul into surfing; she was born for the board. She may have lost her arm in the attack, but she could never lose her faith in God. He was and still is her greatest hero and model. I really think that her faith motivated her to get right back in the waves.
Bethany Hamilton's first-hand account of the full-on fight to keep surfing is worth the read all the way. This teenage autobiography would interest any type of reader. I personally think that to everyone who has read this incredible book including me, there is no doubt that this book has made an impact on peoples lives. What a great book.

5 out of 5 stars I LOVE this book it is amazing!.......2007-03-30

This is a great story for all ages! It is about a girl who suffers from a shark attack and loses her arm. Bethany shows a great example of still going no matter how hard times may get. This is defidently a favorite of mine. I encourage you to read this book, it will inspire you as it did to me!

5 out of 5 stars I love this book........2007-02-15

"It came out of the blue," was the quote Bethany Hamilton used for her book Soul Surfer written by Bethany herself.
Bethany is a young 14 year-old who was a victim of a shark attack and got her arm bitten off. In the water though, her belief in Him kept her calm and only put the thought of "get to the beach". It hard not to not admire how calm she was in hospital knowing her arm was gone and the first thing she asked after her arm surgery, the first thing she asked was "when can I surf again?"
Bethany's style is very interesting the way she uses section breaks in every chapter. On minute she'll be talking about her passion for surfing the next minute she's talking about her father's which keeps everything interesting. She also describes Hawaii so beautifully that you would want to pack your bags and move there! Not only does Bethany describe Hawaii but also her parents. She talks about their past and how they met each other and how they supported Bethany during the tuff times. The main reason Bethany wrote a book though and did an interview with Opera was to share her faith in God and how he lead he thorough all the chaos.
I think Bethany also tried to put a lesson in her book and that was to never to lose hope and stop doing what you love. You can tell Bethany had hope for when she got out of the hospital is went back to focusing on surfing (except for all those interviews she had to do). After a while Bethany was able to surf as well as she could with two arms.
This book is good for ages 9 and up for gore like themes.

5 out of 5 stars Bethany Hamiltion Pursuing her Dream.......2007-01-27


Bethany Hamilton, a regular teen, writes her true story about setting out for a normal day of surfing. However, that normal day turned out to be an unforgettable one. The book, Soul Surfer, will capture your focus as soon as your tingling fingertips flip the first page. As Bethany was lying on her board waiting for a strong wave to come, she turned her head to talk to her friend when all of a sudden BAM her arm was being torn off by a humongous shark. When I read this frantic part of the book, I didn't believe it. I actually had to look over it again. Without notice, the thought of a shark tearing off her arm invaded my mind. Amazingly, she didn't even panic. She quickly told her friend to scurry to the beach and get her to the hospital. Bethany describes this extremely well because she reveals all her thoughts. "Please, God, help me. God let me get to the beach."

The incredible story is enormously well written because it feels as if you are experiencing the fierce attack. Bethany not only survived this horrifying tragic, but also she left the hospital with only one arm. Before the attack, she was hoping to become a professional surfer and is still pursuing that dream. Why? "I try to explain the way I feel about surfing and it's impossible. Only surfers get it..." is what she has to say.

I found that when the book ended, my thoughts were all mixed up. "How could this have happened?" were the words slipping from my mouth. I couldn't believe that she had to go through all that suffering. After you read this book, all of the events wash through your brain making your problems seem nothing compared to hers. I know that I could never walk in her shoes.
Soul Surfer: A True Story of Faith, Family, and Fighting to Get Back on the Board
Average customer rating: 4 out of 5 stars
  • Soul Surfer
  • Dumb
  • Boringgg!!!!!
  • Toughest Surfer Girl Out There
  • A positive review from a teenage girl
Soul Surfer: A True Story of Faith, Family, and Fighting to Get Back on the Board
Bethany Hamilton , Sheryl Berk , and Rick Bundschuh
Manufacturer: Pocket Books
ProductGroup: Book
Binding: Paperback

SurfingSurfing | Water Sports | Sports | Subjects | Books
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ASIN: 1416507728

Product Description

They say Bethany Hamilton has saltwater in her veins. How else could one explain the tremendous passion that drives her to surf? How else could one explain that nothing -- not even the loss of her arm in a horrific shark attack -- could come between her and the waves? That Halloween morning in Kauai, Hawaii -- a glorious part of the world, where it's hard to deny the divine -- Bethany responded to the shark's stealth attack with the calm of a girl with God on her side. Pushing pain and panic aside, she immediately began to paddle with one arm, focusing on a single thought: "Get to the beach...." Rushed to the hospital, where her father, Tom Hamilton, was about to undergo knee surgery, Bethany found herself taking his spot in the O.R. It's the kind of coincidence that isn't mere coincidence to the Hamilton family, a clan whose motto could easily be "the family that surfs and prays together stays together." To them it was a sign someone had a greater plan than the one they'd been working on themselves -- which had been to scrape together whatever resources they could to help Bethany rise to the top of her sport. When the first thing Bethany wanted to know after surgery was "When can I surf again?" it became clear that her unfaltering spirit and determination were part of a greater story -- a tale of courage and faith that this modest and soft-spoken girl would come to share with the world. Soul Surfer is a moving account of Bethany's life as a young surfer, her recovery in the wake of the shark attack, the adjustments she's made to her unique surfing style, her unprecedented bid for a top showing in the World Surfing Championships, and, most fundamentally, her belief in God. It is a story of girl power and spiritual grit that shows that the body is no more essential to surfing -- perhaps even less so -- than the soul. - from book's back cover

Customer Reviews:

5 out of 5 stars Soul Surfer.......2007-04-03

Bethany Hamilton is a strong in her faith, but when tradegdy strikes, will she ever have the faith to surf again? This is the amazing story of a whose faith and courage could help her surf again. Will it be enough? In this book it really shows the love and passion this has for the sport and the perseverance to take risks again. You will find that faith can be big enough for anything in life, even if you don't think so. This book is targeted to all ages, but mainly middle school students and up.
Soul Surfer is mainly for middle school s and up. I also think that this book targets the right audience. For example: indescribable, amputation, and traumatic. "I never saw the shark closing in on me. I'm glad that I never had a split second to wrap my head around the fact that I was being attacked." - Bethany Hamilton (Soul Surfer)
I think that this book is written in a passionate voice and it fits the character well. "Why did God choose me and what does he have in mind for me." -Bethany Hamilton (Soul Surfer) This book is written in first-person.
Soul Surfer is an easy book to follow. It explains points and what happened to Bethany in an easy to understand way. "It's a thirteen year old female and the arm is gone..." -Soul Surfer
I would recommend Soul Surfer to anyone really. Mainly s though. If you are interested in true stories, this would be a great book to read. I truly enjoyed this book and I think that it showed me how perseverance, courage, and strength are great things to have in life and they can really help in tremendous ways.

1 out of 5 stars Dumb.......2007-03-22

Good for Bethany, but this is still a stupid book.

I find it funny that she talks so much about God and Jesus and all that stuff. According to the native Hawaiians, the tiger sharks are called "amakua", which are sea gods. Maybe she should have prayed to the shark so she wouldn't be short one arm!

2 out of 5 stars Boringgg!!!!!.......2006-11-28

Personally I would not recommend this book unless you are a full on Christian. For more than half the book all she talks about is how all she did was pray and that God got her through all of her problems, and how her church and faith helped her most. The book was very boring, and every page was like the page before. My mind would always wander when I would read, because there was nothing exiting. So this is probably not the best book to read.

5 out of 5 stars Toughest Surfer Girl Out There.......2006-01-26

At just 13, Bethany Hamilton lost her left arm and a piece of her surfboard to a tiger shark, possibly limiting her accomplishments of her life forever. But did that stop her from surfing? Of course not! Ever since age three, Bethany has constantly been in the water, usually off the beach near her Kauai home. Her parents are probably most to blame. Both her father Tom and her mother Cheri supported her one hundred percent, because they had both surfed all their lives as well. But her parents are also her teachers, since she is homeschooled. Bethany has two older brothers, both surfers, and a best friend named Alana, another surfer, who stayed withher through the entire attack, surgery, and recovery. She has turned pro and is currently sponsored by her favorite surfboard and clothing manufacturer, RipCurl. Bethany really went against all odds the day she got back on the board. No one, not even her own family believed she would ever surf again, but the very first thing she did after the stitches were taken out was go out and buy a new board! Bethany is not only a celebrity in the surfing world, but in the general sports world as well. She has recieved the 2004 Teen Choice Award for Most Courageous Teen, the 2004 ESPY Award for Best Comeback Athlete, and was called "The Bravest Girl in America" by YM magazine. Soul Surfer is a triumphant and moving account of Bethany Hamilton's fight to get "back on the board."

Bethany throws her soul into surfing, calling her unique style of the sport "Soul Surfing." (Hence the title Soul Surfer). She may have lost her arm in the attack, but she could never lose her faith in God. Maybe her faith motivated her to try again, and it was so strong that she now competes professionally worldwide. Bethany has proved to the world that the body may be a substantial part of surfing, but it's the soul that counts.

Truthfully, Bethany's experience has made her a better person altogether, and probably even a better surfer! Her heartfelt passion for surfing has brought her closer to God in faith and in spirit, and could quite possibly prepare her for adulthood better than anything.

Bethany Hamilton's first-hand account of the full-on fight to keep surfing is worth the read all the way. This teenage autobiography would interest even the least likely of readers, Bethany's story is so amazing. I recommend Soul Surfer to anyone of any age.

-C. Edwards

5 out of 5 stars A positive review from a teenage girl.......2006-01-03

This was a wonderful story, written by Bethany Hammilton herself. It is very discriptive when describing the events on the day of the attack, and also talks about her life afterword. This is a book that is very hard to put down once you start it. It is a very quick read that is very injoyable. Bethany talks alot about her religion and how she believes that God has helped her and the He has a plan for her life. I highley recomend this book.
Ask Bethany: FAQs: Surfing, Faith & Friends (Soul Surfer Series)
Average customer rating: Not rated
    Ask Bethany: FAQs: Surfing, Faith & Friends (Soul Surfer Series)
    Bethany Hamilton
    Manufacturer: Zonderkidz
    ProductGroup: Book
    Binding: Paperback

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          ASIN: 0310712246
          Surfing Rabbi: A Kabbalistic Quest for Soul
          Average customer rating: 4.5 out of 5 stars
          • uh
          • Spiritually Uplifting!
          • CPR for the Soul
          • A Short Review by Glenn Hening
          • Good stuff for anyone
          Surfing Rabbi: A Kabbalistic Quest for Soul
          Nachum Shifren
          Manufacturer: Heaven Ink Publishing
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          Book Description

          Growing up under the spell of surfdom's coveted mecca—Malibu Beach—Norm Shifren risks missing his own bar mitzvah to take his first shaky ride at the fabled surf spot. Benignly apathetic about his Jewishness, Shifren pursues his dream of becoming a big-wave surfer, lifeguard and triathlete.

          Shifren's circuitous journey evolves into a spiritual quest that takes him from the pristine waves of Hawaii and Mexico, to intermarriage in Germany, a soldier's duty in Israel, and finally, to a small shtetl in Israel, where he learns the mysteries of the Jewish ancients.

          His true-life saga is one of new found Jewish consciousness and eye opening self-revelation. Shifren's life comes full circle as he finds G-d not in the synagogue, but in the majesty of Jewish mysticism and the vast power of the ocean.

          Customer Reviews:

          1 out of 5 stars uh.......2006-07-27

          yeah- - basically i agree with another athletic super hero Hank Greenberg: religions divide people- they don't bring them together- at the risk of being non-offensive- their all myths and too many of us or choking to death on from our own personal myths.

          5 out of 5 stars Spiritually Uplifting!.......2001-09-06

          This book is a candid, honest, inspiring and fascinating story of one person's journey of self discovery. A synergy of the spiritual and the intellectual; a fascinating read that will move you!

          5 out of 5 stars CPR for the Soul.......2001-06-12

          SURFING RABBI: A KABBALISTIC QUEST FOR SOUL Reviewed by Evan M. Stone

          "Words that come from the heart enter the heart," said the Sages. Rabbi Nachum Shifren's words will enter the heart of every reader, and if you're a surfing Jew hold on to the rails-tightly. SURFING RABBI: A KABBALISTIC QUEST FOR SOUL takes the brave reader through the white water to contend with the rip current of his Jewish soul. Recounting the highs and lows of his own life, Rabbi Shifren's autobiography shares his personal journey from assimilated Jew to Rabbi. Known as the Surfing Rabbi, Shifren's story is CPR for the soul: "Pure Stoke," to quote John Grissim.

          Shifren shared the familiar Southern California middle class upbringing of an assimilated Jew. His parents, hardly religious and heading toward divorce, were not able to relate to the pre-teen Shifren. He ran away shortly before his bar-mitzvah and tells a hilarious story of his kook ride, dropping in on a local Malibu hot shot called, "The Cat." Though he returned in time for his maftir, after high school, he was off to Hawaii for college. While on Oahu, he majored in big wave riding on the North Shore rather than academics. Eventually, Shifren dropped out of college returning to Southern California to pursue his surfing dreams.

          The twenty-one year old Shifren landed his dream job as a lifeguard. In top physical shape, he could swim twenty-six miles in the ocean without food. He was comfortable, so he thought. The lifeguard soon discovered rip currents exist in the soul as well as the ocean-a nagging, a yearning, a soft voice asking: "What am I? " The more he listened the stronger the voice grew. His soul searching took him to Israel where he served in the Army, lived on a kibbutz, and fell in love with a German woman whom he married.

          While in living in Germany with his wife and two children, Shifren experienced dissonance in his soul as his Jewish neshama demanded attention. A war raged in his heart between his actual life and what his soul yearned for-reclaiming his lost Jewish inheritance. The conflict between his reality Germany and the budding awareness of his Jewish identity engulfed his soul. His marriage painfully disintegrated. Shifren again returned to Southern California, this time to finish his studies and earn a teaching credential. But Shifren learned more than he anticipated after stumbling into the mysterious world of observant Judaism.

          The thirty-three year old Shifren met an indefatigable Chasidic black hatter named Rabbi Loschak after Shifren decided on impulse to attend a Chanukah party sponsored by Chabad. Little did Shifren know the candles he kindled that night would indeed burn longer than he expected. Shifren initially reacted to the bearded Chasid with an odd brew of mockery and respect much like any other assimilated Jew would react. Shifren's soul finally found the opportunity it sought. As he nurtured his relationship with Loschak, he chose to let his soul's rip current take him where it may. He became shomer Shabbat and soon realized his calling to study more at a yeshiva in Israel.

          Shifren's journey alarmingly highlights the Jewish assimilation problem. He offers hope through his own example of teshuvah. The majority Jews living in the United States gravitate inch-by-inch toward assimilation rationalizing their behavior as they abandon their birthright. The heatbeat of the Jewish soul beats fainter as the modern day Hellenism of America shamelessly sucks each successive generation of Jews into its vortex. The spiritual entropy of the Jewish soul ultimately reduces the assimilated Jew to nothing more than a person with a vague notion of his own Jewishness and few tools to find his way home. Beyond this husk is total annihilation of Jewish identity. Thankfully, a faint heartbeat is still a heartbeat for those who are willing to listen.

          The assimilated Jew need only listen to the little voice, constant and nagging, pulling him toward his Judaism. The voice, like a faint alarm clock that will not turn off, asks the Jew to wake up from a comfortable sleep. The sleep of the American Jewish experience though comfortable remains an historical anomaly. Shifren's story is the story of a man who woke up from the sleep of assimilation to reclaim his Judaism. A person can ignore his soul's rip current, but once he begins listening, it grows stronger. As it becomes stronger, one finds himself in an uncomfortable struggle to remain secular and unaware. Indeed, the stronger the rip current, the stronger one must fight to ignore it. The tension between the pull of the unknown and the familiar shore demands resolution. Either one fixes his sights on the shore of familiarity or allows his rip current to carry him into the vast mysteries of OMO. The surfing Rabbi followed his current and delivers the message that we can follow ours.

          Rabbi Shifren's autobiography demonstrates that every Jew has the power to return. But one need only look to Abraham, to understand that every assimilated Jew has the spark of Judaism waiting to be stoked into a fire. "Lech Lecha," G-d told Abraham-and he left the comfortable idol worshipping community of his family to a land that G-d showed him. Every assimilated Jew would do well to listen to his spiritual "Lech Lecha."

          Rabbi Shifren not only found his Jewish Soul, but he had the courage ride that wave to its conclusion despite the heart wrenching consequences. Rabbi Shifren, a spiritual lifeguard, defibrillates the Jewish neshama jolting the assimilated Jew out of his comatose to re-claim his identity and responsibilities as a Jew. "Words that come from the heart enter the heart." May Rabbi Shifren's words, and ultimately G-d enter yours.

          5 out of 5 stars A Short Review by Glenn Hening.......2001-04-16

          Just a quick note of congratulations to Norm on his book. To consistently marry the challenge of surfing with the challenge of his religion represents a fascinating combination of stoke and faith that I've rarely seen, if ever, in my 35 years of riding waves.

          As a founder of both the Surfrider Foundation and the Groundswell Society, I have always felt that surfing has to be something more than self-gratification, or else it becomes an obsessive pasttime that has no worth to anyone. Norm has been able to draw parallels between the world of riding waves with his religion that holds up under the scrutiny of long time surfers as well as Orthodox Jews.

          Now that Norm has put it all in a book, his efforts, along with his Surf and Soul Magazine, have actually enriched my perspectives on surfing and what's it is worth.

          Glenn Hening

          5 out of 5 stars Good stuff for anyone.......2001-04-03

          I am not a surfer nor a Jew, but enjoyed the book enormously. I am only a few years older than the author, grew up in southern CA, and although I did not surf, I had friends who did, so I related well his youth experience. The insight gained as to what drives a surfer was particularly interesting. Since I have never been to Israel, the presentation of life there both as a student and later in the army etc. was also very interesting.

          I enjoyed growing spiritually with the author as he found that "path" and started looking within. I have always admired the commitment required by the Jewish faith, but knew little of how one becomes a Rabbi. Although chapter 20 got a bit heavy from a techno-religious standpoint, I still think it was good to put in all the real Hebrew words for various things. It added a feeling of realism.

          Thanks for the very interesting and enlightening presentation. I know this work will continue to bear fruit.
          The Soul of Surfing
          Average customer rating: 5 out of 5 stars
          • One of the greats
          • best surf book
          • A Surfers book.
          • Best book yet on the history and magic of surfing
          • 60's Surfing... wish I was there.
          The Soul of Surfing
          Fred Hemmings
          Manufacturer: Thunder's Mouth Press
          ProductGroup: Book
          Binding: Paperback

          GeneralGeneral | Photography | Arts & Photography | Subjects | Books
          GeneralGeneral | Water Sports | Sports | Subjects | Books
          SurfingSurfing | Water Sports | Sports | Subjects | Books
          GeneralGeneral | Sports | Subjects | Books
          Similar Items:
          1. Surfing: Hee Nalu Hawaiian Proverbs & Inspirational Quotes Celebrating Hawaii's Royal Sport Surfing: Hee Nalu Hawaiian Proverbs & Inspirational Quotes Celebrating Hawaii's Royal Sport
          2. Lost Coast, The Lost Coast, The
          3. History of Surfing History of Surfing
          4. Step into Liquid Step into Liquid
          5. The Encyclopedia of Surfing The Encyclopedia of Surfing

          ASIN: 1560252057

          Book Description

          "The boldness with which we saw [the Hawaiians] perform these difficult and dangerous maneuvers was altogether astonishing. . . . " Penned over 200 years ago, Captain Cook's words could be written today with no less awe or sincerity. In Waikiki, the Hawaiians were the first people to harness the surf as a source of pleasure. Where, for thousands of years, cultures living on the coastlines of the world's great oceans had seen waves only as menacing natural adversaries, the Hawaiians saw fun. Today, as surfers push the boundaries of wave riding, the ultimate test for the surfing elite remains Hawaii's formidable waves. The Soul of Surfing is Fred Hemmings's "talking story" about surfing's culture and history, his own long association with the sport, and everything from surfer slang to the daredevils who risk death to challenge the big waves.

          Customer Reviews:

          5 out of 5 stars One of the greats.......2000-02-27

          One of the greats has finally written about his love of surfing and the history of the sport, including its professional beginnings. Thank you, Fred, for baring your soul and sharing your stories. Now we will have them for all time.

          4 out of 5 stars best surf book.......1999-09-22

          Most surf books are small waves breaking in shallow water, this guy sees beyond horizon.

          5 out of 5 stars A Surfers book........1999-09-15

          What a great book. A surfer's book! Fred kept it short, sweet and heartfelt...all a surfer requires. I don't agree 100% with his beliefs but he speaks honestly and with a spirit only a Hawaiian could fully grasp. His political platform gets my vote. His last page gave me goosebumps. I have done many things in life non-surfing related but more than anything else, to say "I am a surfer", says it all!

          5 out of 5 stars Best book yet on the history and magic of surfing.......1999-07-22

          Hemming's explores the true personalities that made the sport what it is today. His reflections and anecdotes reveal the true heroism of the sport. Hemming's vibrant story-telling style would be greatly appreciated on ESPN. They need a true surfing celebrity to do on-air commentary. Remember him on ABC's Wide World of Sports? Fred truly epitomizes the soul of surfing.

          5 out of 5 stars 60's Surfing... wish I was there........1999-06-11

          This book really made me wish I'd lived in Hawaii in the 60's. Mr. Hemmings provides an excellent history of the growth of surfing and outrigger canoe racing. It's hard to imagine his uncrowded surf of the 60's. Also a very good look at the change from the recreational surfer to the professional competitor. I highly recommend this book to any person who surfs.
          Surfing The Soul: Mountain, Ocean and Spirit Poems
          Average customer rating: 4 out of 5 stars
          • Surfing and Soul What Could be finer?
          • deep and lofty
          Surfing The Soul: Mountain, Ocean and Spirit Poems
          Mark Rovan
          Manufacturer: Lompico Creek Press
          ProductGroup: Book
          Binding: Paperback

          20th Century20th Century | Poetry | United States | World Literature | Literature & Fiction | Subjects | Books
          GeneralGeneral | Poetry | United States | World Literature | Literature & Fiction | Subjects | Books
          GeneralGeneral | Poetry | Literature & Fiction | Subjects | Books
          United StatesUnited States | Single Authors | Poetry | Literature & Fiction | Subjects | Books
          ASIN: 0961931132

          Book Description

          When the mind is able to see beyond the surface of our surroundings, we can view nature in its simplicity and depth. The precise, passionate writing of poet Mark Rovan combines reality with surreal, true experiences of the natural world, as he leads the reader deeper and deeper into the spiritual dimension. Soar with these fresh spirit poems, sensuous oceanscapes, personality sketches, and passionate accounts of life in Montana. Deep water wisdom and a connection to the Divine stream from the heart of this poet, immersed in spirituality.

          Surfing the Soul is divided into four sections, three of which explore the relationship of humanity to the natural world: the mountains, the ocean, and spirit. A fourth section, "Surfing Sagas," is devoted to poetic interpretations of famous surfers, such as Jeff Clark, Maverick's pioneer and Jack O'Neill, creator of the wetsuit. Describing Peter Johnson, artist and New Zealand surfer, Mark says, "I scored delicious waves/…between wrinkles on the neck of Lost Coast/…with smooth Cadbury chocolate cutbacks."

          Customer Reviews:

          4 out of 5 stars Surfing and Soul What Could be finer?.......2007-08-05

          What could be finer? Another book by that masterful poet with the boyish charm - Mark Rovan - that's what! I heard there was a new book(s) in the works. I can hardly wait.
          This book knocked my wet suit soxs off!

          4 out of 5 stars deep and lofty.......2004-01-06

          A modern down to earth mystic reels off stirring verses. Great imagery and inspiration. New perspectives, some moving, others funny. Well worth the read ... digest one a day, leave them as message gifts for your friends. Something for everyone. Thanks!
          Chasing Blue Sky: Soul Searching... Soul Surfing
          Average customer rating: Not rated
            Chasing Blue Sky: Soul Searching... Soul Surfing
            Mac Maverick
            Manufacturer: Trafford Publishing
            ProductGroup: Book
            Binding: Paperback

            AnthologiesAnthologies | Poetry | Literature & Fiction | Subjects | Books
            GeneralGeneral | Poetry | Literature & Fiction | Subjects | Books
            ASIN: 1412071755

            Book Description

            Welcome to the wonderful world of Surf Wisdom! So what do you get when you mix philosophy with Surfers? You get...very philosophical surfer dudes! Introducing The Philosurfers! (Philosophers + Surfers = Philosurfers!)

            The Philosurfers aren't your everyday "philosophers". No way, they are the explorers and risk takers of the mystical world. They ride the thrills of passion on the ocean front, they glitter and gleam with enthusiasm as they squirrel down a pipeline. And just like you and I, they are struggling to live life in balance. But why struggle and what is balance anyway? They will be guided on their most sacred paths as they will be confronted with many of life's hardest decisions and to top it off, they will have to join together to combat The Surf Pirates. Yeh, the demoralizing surf gang that not only robs them of the best surf rides but steels their ideals and lowers their self esteem all at the same time. The Philosurfers and The Surf Pirates are really just reflections of each other. So everything that The Philosurfers hate or even love about themselves is reflected back to them through the face of a gnarly Surf Pirate. It's like looking in the mirror.

            Just take Mac Maverick for example. He thinks he's so great and he loves himself but he has to combat The Surf Pirate: EGO. And then there's Sharky, the Philosurfer that;s so busy trading stocks while surfing, he didn't even know he was being robbed by The Surf Pirate: greed.

            But alls not lost because the Zen Master, Ray BanZen, aka "Ray Banz", the know all, the guru, will be the one who guides them on this soul journ. Ray Banz has the wisdom and the encouragement required for this journey and thank goodness because Keeter, the one whose always scared and worried has to battle The Surf Pirate: fear.

            Kelly Dawn however isn't really bothered much by The Surf Pirate: sad cause she's just the cutest little blonde surfer girl who sees the beauty in everything. Now on the other hand, The Surf Pirate: envy always works hard to bring Reike down. She's the other surfer girl who is trying not to be jealous of others. And of course, last but not least there is the Jetman. He has to battle The Surf Pirate: N-Denial who tries to keep him from discovering his true life purpose.

            This little surf wisdom book is just an introduction to Mac Maverick and his surfmates and will give you some insight into what they have learned and how they are using their new found Surf Wisdom to create a better and happier world for themselves. In other words, a Life of Balance.

            And please don't be scared of the word "philosophy" cause really, philosophers and philosurfers are people just like you and me. They are people who can translate what they see in the world into some pretty strong words and in those words there is meaning and if you allow yourself to see the deeper meaning, you'll be a better person for it.

            So join in as we go Chasing Blue Sky. It's the never ending chase to better yourself and it will lead you to the secret of secrets, and there you will dive into the world of Soul Searching...Soul Surfing and we will ride the waves of life together!

            Books:

            1. Stories on Stage: Children's Plays for Reader's Theater (or Readers Theatre), With 15 Play Scripts From 15 Authors, Including Roald Dahl's The Twits and Louis Sachar's Sideways Stories from Wayside School
            2. Streetwise Paris (Streetwise)
            3. The Barn at the End of the World: The Apprenticeship of a Quaker, Buddhist Shepherd
            4. The Basic Book of Photography, Fifth Edition
            5. The Beat of Urban Art: The Art of Justin Bua
            6. The Big Book of Breasts
            7. The Chicago World's Fair of 1893: A Photographic Record (Dover Architectural Series)
            8. The Design of Everyday Things
            9. The Devil's Redhead
            10. The Double Bind: A Novel

            Books Index

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