Madeleine Vionnet

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Madeleine Vionnet's greatest distinction as a designer was her discovery of the bias cut. Cutting patterns along the bias forces the fabric to cling to the body and move with it, which created her trademark look of draped, form-conscious clothing. When designer Issey Miyake first saw a Vionnet dress, it was like the first time he saw Winged Victory at the Louvre: "I thought then that the statue of Nike had been reincarnated in the dresses by Vionnet. She had captured the most beautiful aspect of classical Greek aesthetics: the body and movement." Vionnet's long career as a dressmaker and designer began with the 20th century. Always conscious of women's bodies and inspired in part by modern dancer Isadora Duncan, she soon dispensed with corsets and other constricting garments, and used barefoot models to present her first solo collection. Though simple, her dresses were never plain; the use of a Cartier necklace as a halter strap is a classic Vionnet innovation. This inimitable combination of comfort and glamour made Vionnet's clothes a favorite among European nobility, Hollywood royalty--notably Marlene Dietrich, Gypsy Rose Lee, and Katharine Hepburn--as well as socialites and other trendsetters. Close to a century after its introduction, the bias cut remains an important element in clothing design.

Madeleine Vionnet is a tall book that echoes many of the designs inside. It is filled with contemporary photographs of the clothing, period pictures shot by Man Ray and Steichen, design sketches, and, perhaps most interestingly, patterns for the clothes. The accompanying text traces Vionnet's evolution from an 11-year-old seamstress, through her days apprenticing at the famed Callot Soeurs couture house in Paris, and on into the design empire that secured her an enduring spot in fashion history.

Book Description

Back in print at last, with a ravishing new cover, Madeleine Vionnet is "not only the best book on Vionnet, but perhaps the best book ever on a fashion designer" (Out). Madeleine Vionnet (1876–1975) was the greatest dressmaker in the world. Considered a genius for her innovations with the bias cut—the most difficult and desirable cut in clothing design—she has a fanatical following. Vionnet was a maverick, her results spectacular. She dressed the stars of the '30s, invented new pattern-making techniques, and eschewed corsets for her models. Vionnet's dresses are virtually un-copiable and highly coveted by vintage clothing collectors. Madeleine Vionnet is the definitive study of this venerated artist. Illustrated with more than 400 photographs, line drawings, and watercolors, it also includes 38 original patterns for Vionnet dresses. As the Art Deco Society of L.A.'s newsletter has said, anyone "interested in Art Deco or fashion must have this book."

Customer Reviews:

Madeleine Vionnet.......2007-08-19

This book is an absolute dream right through from the beautiful hard cover to the wonderful photographs, history and patterns. I am a Designer/Patternmaker and is the most beautiful book I have ever bought on fashion. Betty Kirke has put a lot of love and care into this treasure and any student of fashion, especially patternmaking and draping has to purchase this and learn a whole lot about bias cutting.

An excellent reference book.......2007-05-21

Madeleine Vionnet
A fascinating book on Madeleine Vionnet. Betty Kirke has plunged into the personal story, the career, but mostly the clothes, this avant garde fashion designer has made in the 20's and 30's. All young fashion designers should be grateful to Betty Kirke, the talented author of this book, who has given them the chance to study the patterns, the style, the technique of Madeleleine Vionnet.

Absolutely gorgeous!.......2007-04-13

Well worth the price. Saw this in a store and was mesmerized.Where Poiret is fun....this gal was ALL class.

draped fashions.......2007-03-16

I wanted to learn how to do this style of gowns for my fashion dolls. I saw this book on ebay go for $600 so figured it should be a good one. It has plenty of info and even the patterns for the gowns.

Awesome Reference.......2007-03-12

What a great book, excellent quality paper, production, layout, content--how wonderful that the author shared the patterns, this is a must have for any budding fashion designer.

Average customer rating:

Beautiful Photographs in a Beautiful Book
Irving Penn: A Career in Photography
Irving Penn: A Pioneer
Terrific

Irving Penn: A Career in Photography
Colin Eisler , Issey Miyake , Edmund Carpenter , Jennifer Jankauskas , Rosamond Bernier , and Martin Harrison
Manufacturer: Bulfinch
ProductGroup: Book
Binding: Hardcover

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ASIN: 082122459X

Customer Reviews:

Beautiful Photographs in a Beautiful Book.......2007-07-29

Very classy, clean, elegant, refined photographs. Presented beautifully. A great photo book to own if you like more classic photography.

Irving Penn: A Career in Photography.......2005-08-19

Irving Penn: A Career in Photography is a book that examines the work and life of photographer Irving Penn. Several different writers and people associated with Penn have included text to describe their view of Penn and his life in photography. Colin Westerbeck, Issey Miyake, Martin Harrison, Edmund Carpenter, Rosamond Bernier, Colin Eisler, and Jennifer Jankauskas all contribute to the book. Writer and editor Colin Westerbeck invites the reader into the history of Irving Penn through a summary of Penn's life in his photo career. He begins with Penn's early fashion feature called "Flying Down to Lima" where after a case of airsickness, developed a new vision that changed his view of photography. Westerbeck also mentions Penn's different styles and renowned photo shoots including his many photos of various celebrities wedged into a narrow-angle corner he created out of theater flats, and also Penn's move to platinum prints. The remainder of the 200-page book comprises Penn's more famous photos. In total, there are 193 in the book, some which correspond to the text.
Irving Penn: A Career in Photography is an excellent book for anyone interested in photography, or even a professional looking for inspiration. Though it is a large book (approximately 10" by 12") its size is fitting for a photo book so that all the images can be easily seen and appreciated. The selection of photos is also suitable in that they are some of Penn's best and most known to the photo savvy, and are also mixed in genre. The text contributed by the aforementioned people help describe and reflect Penn's photos, and also show his many styles, techniques, and views on photography. Though these stories are informative to the reader, they can also get confusing and tough to read, as some of the writers tend to overuse unnecessary wording and phrasing. However, the excellent use of text/photo relationship in design and content work well in presentation, and contributes to an overall superb book.

Irving Penn: A Pioneer.......2005-08-18

One of the most significant photographers of the twentyith century, Irving Penn's captivating photographs throughout his career are wonderfully showcased in this book. From his humble beginnings as a graphic dsigner in the 1940's to his portraits of the native peoples from the far reaches of the world-Penn's work has had a major impact on not only the world of photography but aslo the art world as a whole. This retrospective of Penn's body of work is much more thorough than expected.
The graphic quality of his work really speaks to me as a graphic desiner; weather it be his rich photographs of nude women or his famous portraits of politicans, actors and fashion models. The numerous illustrations of Penn's well-known corner shot were a nice surprise in the book; many of these images are very difficult to find on the internet, it was great being able to study the nuances of the portraits up close. A beautiful and informative book that any Penn fan would love.

Terrific.......1999-09-01

Great book for anybody interested in Penn's wor

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Issey Miyake
Irving Penn
Manufacturer: New York Graphic Society
ProductGroup: Book
Binding: Hardcover

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ASIN: 0821217208

Irving Penn Regards the Work of Issey Miyake: Photographs 1975-1998

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Penn & Miyake: a match made in heaven

Irving Penn Regards the Work of Issey Miyake: Photographs 1975-1998
Issey Miyake , Irving Penn , and Midori Kitamura
Manufacturer: Bulfinch Press
ProductGroup: Book
Binding: Hardcover

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ASIN: 0821226290

Book Description

This book displays the wordless harmony of the artistic relationship between Penn, one of the great photographers of the twentieth century, and the designer Issey Miyake, one of the few figures to have taken clothing design into the realm of art. This is an invaluable representation of the intuitive partnership between two artists that Miyake describes as a silent understanding.

Customer Reviews:

Penn & Miyake: a match made in heaven.......2001-04-14

Irving Penn has, for decades, been one of the most remarkable fashion photographers, submitting clothes to his own crystal aesthetic in ways that bring their most interesting details to light. He is the perfect man to photograph the work of Issey Miyake, whose clothes demand an inventive and piercing eye to capture their astonishing detail and structure on film. This book, collecting dozens of Penn's photographs of Miyake clothes, spanning from the early 80s until now, shows that when Penn photographs Miyake's clothes, it is truly a collaboration (although Miyake is never present at the shoots and Penn has never been to a Miyake show), and the resulting photos are more perfect for the cooperation.

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Irving Penn Regards Issey Miyake

Manufacturer: Jonathan Cape
ProductGroup: Book
Binding: Hardcover

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ASIN: 0224059661

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Issey Miyake (Universe of Fashion)
Laurence Bniam
Manufacturer: The Vendome Press for Universe
ProductGroup: Book
Binding: Hardcover

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ASIN: 0789301172
Release Date: 1997-11-15

Book Description

Issey Miyake is the quintessence of the postwar Japanese fashion miracle - a marriage of high technology, mass production, and the conservation of traditional values. Thanks to him, fashion was able to catch up with the tenets of modern industrial design. Miyake's great invention, his "pleats" in 1992, convinced Indian women to throw away their saris, Paris fashion types to dump their fitted suits, and Japanese ladies to abandon their own look in favor of a garment as comfortable as a track suit yet ten times lighter. As important a discovery for women as the t-shirt or jeans, Miyake's pleats can be thrown into a closet or laundry machine and keep their shape thanks to synthetic materials. The text and photography in this volume bring into full view Miyake's inimitable style and vision.

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Tokujin Yoshioka Design
Ryu Niimi , Issey Miyake , Ross Lovegrove , Kozo Fujimoto , and Ingo Maurer
Manufacturer: Phaidon Press
ProductGroup: Book
Binding: Hardcover

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ASIN: 0714843970

Book Description

The First Major Book on one of Japan's Most Radical Designers;Renowned Designer of theHoney-pop Chair."This ability to create something that moves us, using simple tools, is atthe root of his talent; he is superbly gifted in capturing people's heartsin this way. . . . With his enthusiasm and vigor, it is impossible topredict just how far he may push himself in the future."Issey Miyake,from Tokujin Yoshioka DesignTokujin Yoshioka (b.1967) is one of the most important young Japanesedesigners working today.Yoshioka's client list includes shop design forIssey Miyake; space design for Nissan, BMW, Shiseido; exhibition design forIssey Miyake, Herm+s, Muji and Peugeot; and product design for Driade. His work ranges from constructing a chair solely out of honeycomb sheets ofpaper to transforming and re-locating a 150-year-old rice barn into hisTokyo studio.Experimenting with a sophisticated interplay of materials,shapes, freshness, and creativity, his approach continually astounds.TOKUJIN YOSHIOKA DESIGN by Ryu Niimi, and with contributing essays by PaolaAntonelli, Elisa Astori, Kozo Fujimoto, Ross Lovegrove, Ingo Maurer, IsseyMiyake and Ryu Niimi, is the first book to present the designer's entirebody of work.From his early projects and well-known designs for the IsseyMiyake shop in Tokyo, and the iconic Honey-pop chair, to his products todayfor Driade, this lush monograph combines a major a survey of his careerwith essays by contemporary designers and critics.The book includes notonly color photographs of the finished product, but sketches and snapshotsof the manufacturing process, showing the processes at work behindYoshioka's design from conception to culmination.After graduating from Kuwasawa Design School in Tokyo, Yoshioka studieddesign under Shiro Kuramata and Issey Miyake.Yoshioka created the hatsand other accessories worn in the Miyake's fashion shows as well asdesigned the boutiques' window displays.The motivation behind all of hiswork focuses on how the act of design is expressed and experienced. Technically excellent with a superb appreciation of light as a designmaterial, his designs use fiber optics, stunning light installations, andreflective-transparent materials in a way that leaves the observer with theimpression that the future has arrived.In 2000 Yoshioka established his own design studio where he produced hismost famous designs including the Honey-pop chair, a chair made completelyout of paper.Flat-packed, until it is opened out into a 3-D form, thechair is custom molded by the weight and body shape of the user. Consistent with Yoshioka's design ethic, the interaction between humanbeings and materials is central.Materials grow, alter, sculpt, and eventransform a chair into an intriguing living system.The Honey-pop chair isin the permanent collections of the Museum of Modern Art, New York and theVitra Design Museum, Berlin, among others. For Tokujin Yoshioka design means communicating something fascinating,surprising, joyful, and unexpected and with the release of this monographwe are now able to witness this exciting dialogue first-hand.

Issey Miyake (Big Series : Architecture and Design)

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Issey Miyake (Big Series : Architecture and Design)
Mark Holborn
Manufacturer: Benedikt Taschen Verlag
ProductGroup: Book
Binding: Paperback

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ASIN: 3822888745

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a work of art
art (not instruction)

Inspired Flower Arrangements
Toshiro Kawase
Manufacturer: Kodansha International
ProductGroup: Book
Binding: Hardcover

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ASIN: 4770023863

Book Description

In this strikingly beautiful and revolutionary work, Kawase has taken a fresh approach to flower arranging, demonstrating through breathtaking color photographs his universally appealing style of bringing nature indoors.

Often misunderstood as a static art form, its rules frozen by generations of teachers, Japanese flower arranging should in fact be a dynamic relationship between man and nature, with every arrangement holding within it infinite possibilities of form and statement.

While based on a thorough knowledge of traditional techniques, Kawase's designs are liberated by his personal response to the natural environment. The arranger, in his view, is an artist, not tied down by the received way of doing things, but free to express himself. The object, ideally, is to
create a form of a floral poetry.

Hence the word "inspired" in the title: his aim being to inspire, to suggest new ways of designing with flowers. At the same time, though, he provides practical tips for beginners; explains the importance of using the right containers, and shares his own thoughts on what makes a particular
arrangement eye-catching or graceful.

Here, in a new, slightly smaller format than before is one of the most unusual and beautiful books of its kind ever published.

Customer Reviews:

a work of art.......2002-05-21

Not only the flower arrangements, but also the photography, the re-production, and the text is done with much attention to artistic expression, the book itself is a work of art. A delight for the heart and soul.

art (not instruction).......2000-10-14

Beautiful photographs of, yes, inspired flower arrangements. These arrangements go beyond ikebana in the formal sense, and head out into mixed-media art territory. The photography is lovely as well. If you're looking for ikebana instruction, this is probably not it. But if you love plants, art, Asian/minimalist aesthetics, and/or lovely photography, drink deep.

A-Poc Making: Issey Miyake and Dai Fujiwara

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A-Poc Making: Issey Miyake and Dai Fujiwara
Issei Miyake , and Dai Fujiwara
Manufacturer: Vitra Design Mus
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Binding: Paperback

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ASIN: 3931936260

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