Average customer rating:
- Color illustrations would bee an improvement
- Best Resource for Actors and Costumers
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The History of Costume: From Ancient Mesopotamia Through the Twentieth Century
Blanche Payne ,
Geitel Winakor , and
Jane Farrell-Beck
Manufacturer: HarperCollins Publishers
ProductGroup: Book
Binding: Paperback
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ASIN: 0060471417 |
Customer Reviews:
Color illustrations would bee an improvement.......2002-02-05
This is costume history on the broad line, as the title says. It gives a good overwiev and as a work of reference, not a specialised deepstudy in a short period or a single item, it is a satisfaying book. An improvement could however bee made in the illustrations, I do appreciate the correctness of stating that some pictures are "reedrawn from ..." I have seen other books were it was not stated although I knew it must have been done, but I would have prefered reproductions of the original pictures, and at least some of the illustrations to bee in color. I presume it was a matter of cost. But the book is not inexpensive as it is and there might bee others besides me who would seriuosly consider paying more if the illustrations were informative as to the colors as well. I have had the possibility to see the earlier edition (1960-thies) as well and compare them a bit and even if I can understand the wish to bee serious. There are a few alterations I wish they had not made.Had it for instance been such a problem to keep a photograp of an reconstruction of an ancient egyptian dress when it was so clearly stated that it was a reconstruction? And why on earth eliminate almost everyone of the of the patterns taken from existing pieces of costume. Yeas some of them have been mesured and published in other books as stated in the introduction, but what would have been wrong with the possibility to compare unless there were serious errors in their making? I could not spot any.
Best Resource for Actors and Costumers.......2000-05-21
This new edition of one of the best costume history books I've ever seen is very welcome. This edition has all of the power of the original with an added preface and a further, more detailed chapter on 20th Century dress. I have learned more about period details which have helped me as an actor from this book than from many classes. A necessary and pleasurable resource for the actor, costumer, designer and history buff. Worth the money!
Book Description
Fascinating panorama of styles — from diaphanous gowns of Egyptian royalty to 1920s wardrobe of American flapper. Accessories and hairstyles. Illustrations.
Customer Reviews:
Good secondary resource.......2007-05-16
The black and white illustrations are well researched, and many are reminiscent of fashion plates and other primary resources. While designers and historians should be skeptical of original illustrations because of artistic liberties and accidental changes to the shape, style, and accuracy of the garment, this book is pretty decent/trustworthy.
Gorsline also gives specific dates for the illustrations, which is very helpful in researching, and puts in helpful details like accessories (corsets, gloves, hats, shoes, etc.) and hairstyles. It mentions nationality, when appropriate, as well as the style (the name of the artist, when applicable, that inspired the illustration). It shows a range of variations within a given period, demonstrates different ways to wear various garments, and provides a wonderfully diverse sampling of clothes to give any researching a great start in their exploration. As with all secondary resources, be sure to cross-reference for accuracy.
Mixed bag.......2003-11-10
This book is the culmination of research done by Mr. Gorsline. He has recreated the illustrations based upon research done primarily in the New York Library system. Many of his drawings have a reference... but that reference isn't formatted in such a way you could actually find out anything useful. For that reason it's not a particularly good choice for serious "historical" costumers. But if you're willing to accept that limitation, it is a nice reference, particularly the collected drawings of hair and head coverings.
Great reference, especially for early clothing and hair.......2003-06-19
I received this book as a gift, and have found it very useful in creating accurate costumes, especially for the Medieval styles. The later (Victorian, Edwardian, etc.) chapters have been less useful to me because they offer limited examples of a few different garments from each time period. Fashions changed so much more quickly after the Renaissance, that a more detailed look at the styles of each decade, or each year, in each locality after the 16th century, would be much more useful. The chapters on medieval and ancient fashions, however, are extremely useful to me, because the images are taken from contemporary manuscripts and illustrations and represent a time period for which we know comparatively little about the garments most people wore, although research continues. The drawings make it easy to see the line of each garment and its shape, which is very helpful in drafting patterns for such garments, and the illustrations of hairstyles and head coverings are also very clear and understandable. This book is most useful as one book in a library of costume publications, as it does not contain much, if any, information regarding fabric weaves, colors, embroidery, etc.
Designs minus beauty.......2003-02-15
This book contains a great deal of visual information on clothing throughout the world and through the ages. It makes a good reference. However, unlike Racinet's dazzling Historical Encyclopedia of Costumes, it is not beautiful. The images are functional, but not inspirational.
Not even a tertiary source - redrawings of redrawings.......2001-10-11
I do not recommend this volume for anyone doing serious research on costume. I would recommend going with sources closer to the original.
Book Description
Americans began the twentieth century standing in Europe's sartorial shadow, yet ended by outfitting the world in blue jeans, T-shirts and sneakers. How did this come about? What changes in American culture were reflected in fashion? What role did popular culture play? This important overview of American fashion in the twentieth century considers how Americans went from imitating British and French fashion to developing their own sense of style. It examines such influences on dress as class, jazz and hip hop, war, the space race, movies, television and sports. Further, the book shows how gender, psychology, advertising, public policy, shifting family values, the American design movement and expertise in mass production profoundly influenced an American style that has been exported across the globe.
Customer Reviews:
Fun To Flip Through.......2005-12-12
This coffee table style book is organized by decade and full of illustrations and photographs. Because of similar books already in our collection (e.g. HATS by Colin McDowell or HATS IN VOGUE) that were published earlier, this 1999 contribution didn't add much to the genre for us, but if you don't have one of the similar books, this is a good one to collect.
aspiring milliner.......2002-02-09
Nice overall presentation of hat styles, designers. milliners.
Brief, informative bios.
Great photos, great reference book.
Must have for hat enthusiasts as well as hat makers.
Not a source for technique.
A bit chaotic but nice; lots of information.......2001-05-09
The book covers hats, hat-makers and hat-wearers of the 20th century. It does have a chronological order, however, the contents still seem a bit jumbled. There is not much detail, but loads of information - all kinds of little tidbits and short (very short) biographies of milliners, "flashlights" on famous hat-buyers and fashion-leaders and their influence on the hat-styles of their time, little histories on single hat-styles and so forth. If you're looking for specific information - be prepared for despair. You'd have to be either very determined or very lucky to find the information you're looking for. If you want an easy-reader with great pictures, a feeling for the decades of the 20th century, the people and the hats, this is IT. The aspects and number of people and hats covered or featured is amazing. Overall, I'd recommend the book (there are not enough books on hats out there, anyway!) but would advise you to look elsewhere for detailed information.
A must for hat lovers!!!.......2000-09-13
I have always been a lover of hats and I when I picked up this wonderful book I could not put it down. The photographs are absolutly outstanding, colorful and detailed, the text wonderfully written, and a great book to have on your coffee table. Even if you don't collect hats as a hobbie this book is wonderful to cuddle up with on the couch or in front of a cozy fire.
Best book of the year.......2000-07-21
The pictures are great, the text is well written. You learn more about famous milliners like Philip Treacy or Patricia Underwood. I simply love this book.
Book Description
From the turn-of-the-century S-bend silhouette to the bumster and bustier of today, this comprehensive survey explores all the significant developments in fashion in a century that has witnessed a growing preoccupation with personal appearance and clothing. Written by two experts in costume from the Victoria and Albert Museum in London, it explores movements and innovations in style for both men and women through the work of the most original and influential designers and couturiers. Organized around crucial shifts in style and major world events, the book places exciting, even revolutionary, developments in fashion within their socioeconomic, political, and cultural contexts. International in scope, it encompasses the century's most important designers and metropolitan fashion centers, including developments in accessories, hairstyles, and make-up. The importance of mass production, advances in man-made fibers, the growth of ready-to-wear, and the major influences of postwar subcultures on contemporary fashion are also discussed. A reference section includes an extensive bibliography and a glossary of designers.
Customer Reviews:
Good review of 20th century fashion in relation to history of the time.......2006-01-15
I bought this book for my daughter who is studying Fashion Design as a freshman in high school. I think I may enmjoy the book more than she, especially the part about the 60s! The section on WWII is very interesting; did you know the reason men lost their turnups on trousers was due to rationing of fabric? I finally found out what utility fabric was and saw a picture of a demob suit! Not loads of pictures but those that there are are good and illustrate the text well.
Customer Reviews:
VERY GOOD.......2007-01-03
This is a very good reference book to have if you are working in the film/TV industrie or even Theatre or any other fashion area. it gives you a very good overview of every period for men, women, and children (which is very rare to find). it even shows accessories, hats gloves etc.
Some strengths, but some serious weaknesses.......2006-08-19
I am very disappointed with this item. I bought it on the strength of Peacock's Shoes: the Complete Sourcebook, and the fact that Thames & Hudson was the publisher (another reputation bites the dust). One problem that both books share is that the title doesn't really convey the scope. I realize that it is hard to define vague areas, but this is more or less Western European and American fashion, it is only about women's clothing, not even the 2003 reprint covers the entire 20th century (it's 1900-1990), and "complete sourcebook" is a bit of an exaggeration. Christian Lacroix claims in the Preface that the fashions of the 1990s are too diverse to be covered. How "fashion" is defined is one of the chief problems with the book.
The basic plan is a good one: fashions for various occasions along with their associated underwear and accessories. The book is broken up into sections covering 5 years (e.g.,1900-1904) Each section has a page each of haute couture, accessories (usually shoes, purses, hats, wraps, and oddly enough, tops such as blouses and sweaters), leisure wear, underwear, evening wear, bridal fashions and two pages of day wear. Coats, jewelry, wigs, gloves, etc., are covered only sporadically. All are illustrated in color by 1100 drawings of a number of garments with dates; only the haute couture are attributed to specific designers. Apparently in order to save pages, the keys to the illustrations, with detailed information about the items, are grouped together in 10 year increments. I find this a bit annoying, but I understand the motive. This is followed by a very useful section with silhouettes for the beginning and ending of each five year period, with description of typical details: e.g. fabrics, trimmings, necklines. This is followed by brief vitas of designers and a bibliography.
There are some oddities in this admirable plan. I was born in 1953, so I remember several decades. Slips start vanishing from the illustrations in the 1960s, even though Peacock still shows plenty of dresses, and are pretty much absent in the 1980s. I suspect more women wore slips later: dresses and skirts were actually more popular than a decade earlier. Contrary to the impression conveyed in the drawings, women did not stop carrying purses in 1970-1974 and 1985-1990.
Worse, Peacock has ignored some of the major trends in 20th century clothing: blue jeans and denim; the decline of hats; and the rise of the woman's business suit. Even given that a book of this size can't really be "complete" this is a major failing.
The industrial revolution made clothing relatively cheap: even the poor could afford new clothing and affect designs. As Christian Lacroix says in the Preface: "... the more the century progresses, the greater the gulf between magazine images of fashion and what is actually being worn on the street." Peacock seems to ignore this. Lacroix continues less accurately: "There is no risk of that with this book ... the every day is ... side by side with fashion's idealized images."
Peacock himself says: "As dictated by the couturier, fashionable dress represents an ideal which few women attain but to which many aspire." He states that this book is his impression of the "ideal". I question defining fashion as strictly determined by couturiers or designers. They are a phenomenon of only the last couple of centuries; fashion existed long before they did. Historically, fashionable clothing was available only to the fairly wealthy and was an indication of their status. Now more people can afford designer clothes, but choose not to wear them. Bell-bottom jeans were as much a fashion of the 1960s-1970s as mini-skirts. Further, jeans were later created by some of the fashion designers that Peacock lists.
There are only hints that hats were pretty much abandoned except for cold weather and, in some cases, religious venues. Someone once described this as the greatest revolution in Western costume! When I was young, most women would never have gone to church or anything other than the most casual event without gloves and a hat. If they didn't have a hat, many put a handkerchief on their head. Now it is very common for women to be bare-headed.
Lastly, the business suit, particularly the knee-length versions that have probably been the most common, are virtually ignored.
The variety of types of garments are a major strength of this book, and some people may want it for that reason. I think it is a very poor representation of how people, even those consciously following some fashion, actually dressed. I suspect that many people with a great interest in the fashion of these years have this information already, and it is questionable as a sole, basic source. Certainly I wouldn't suggest that a novelist, say, rely on this as a representation of clothing in the last half of the century at least.
Historical Documentation of Fashion.......2003-12-29
This is a nice book. I want to be a fashion design so my mom thought this would be a nice book,...it wasn't what I was hoping for but it helps if I ever have 'designer's block.' You can look at some of the designs and certain trends and work them into a peice of clothing. And since I've had a bit of trouble drawing my design with people and poses this gives me an idea of what it needs to look like but it doesn't help you draw better. All in all it's a pretty nice book, but not the kind I would have bought but I'm glad my mom did because it's given me lots of ideas.
great "handbook".......2003-03-19
I'm a vintage clothing dealer and use this book constantly. Not as a reference for myself (there are many better books on this subject) but as a guide to show customers a general guide to the "look" of a certain period. The picture outline format is great for just illustrating trends in outfits from the time. I show them how you can capture a look with certain styles or accessories that may or even may not be period. It is a wonderful tool that I have used many, many times. I may not recommend it as a comprehensive guide to vintage, but as a visual tool for a quick education at a glance, you can't beat it.
Like a book of paper doll cutouts.......2000-10-05
The book is filled with illustrations which are very nice, but I wasn't too impressed. Had I not bought it through Amazon, and was able to flip through it beforehand, I probably would not have bought it. Still, it looks pretty good on a coffee table.
Book Description
"Gay style actually sets trends. It’s what straight people take fashion from."--Tony Woodcock
From the New Edwardians and muscle boys to Radical Drag and Genderfuck, gay men’s dress has had a profound impact on fashion. However, it is easy to forget that, with few exceptions, gay men earlier in the century took great pains to conceal their sexual identity. Men such as Quentin Crisp, while highly influential, were far from the norm. Most gay men resorted to a number of subtle dress codes to identify themselves to other gay men -- from Oscar Wilde’s famous green carnation, which was still being worn in the 1930s, through to suede shoes.
Beginning with a look at the subcultural world of gay men in the early part of this century -- particularly in New York and London -- this fascinating book analyzes the trends in dress adopted by gay men as well as the challenge gay style has made to mainstream men’s fashion. The importance of dress choice to the formation of sexual identity is highlighted, as is gay influence on punk and the fashion industry as a whole. The rise of new dress choices in the wake of gay liberation is analyzed with particular emphasis on the masculinization of gay dress. The importance of the body to gay culture is addressed, from the physique magazines of the 1950s, through to tattooing and body piercing, and their origins in the S&M scene.
Anyone interested in gay culture or the history of dress will find this book to be essential reading.
Customer Reviews:
A Complete Picture of Gay Men's Dress.......2002-06-08
I've read the book and have given it to many friends as gifts. For those people who are looking for historical data on our cultural histroy (and there's not much out there that's as good as this!) - THIS is the book that you want.
Book Description
Originally published in 1999 and now fully revised and updated, Fashion is a photographic celebration that surveys all the preeminent couturiers and fashion houses from the era before the Great War through the revolutionary changes wrought by the Jazz Age and the Swinging Sixties to designers at work today. Everything is included in this authoritative volume, from Chanel's little black dress to the latest Prada or envelope-pushing boutiques.What distinguishes Fashion from other overviews or histories of the subject is that it also examines the ancillary driving forces that have propelled fashion trends and fuelled the rise of styles. In many ways, this book makes clear that these supposedly secondary influences (fashion editors, advertising, newspapers, magazines, department stores, boutiques) became increasingly important during the course of the twentieth century. Included in the book are overviews of key figures in the fashion industry and design community.
Customer Reviews:
Pretentious and incomplete.......2007-01-30
It's a Rizzoli; light on the text, heavy on the graphic. But vastly incomplete and devoted to high fashion only. No trickle-down here, which is a shame. When will someone publish a historically complete book on fashion encompassing couture to K Mart?
great book.......2005-08-14
So jam-packed full of information and pictures, great for history, trends, great source book in a compact easy-to-carry size.
insight into 20th century fashion trends.......2002-06-19
'Fashion - The Twentieth Century' by Francois Baudot is the book to read if you really want to gain an insight into 20th century fashion trends. Its five page bibliography is the most comprehensive list of any fashion book we have come across. Baudot is an expert and this is what makes the book so enjoyable. There are many pictures and the text flows and is very informative. There are also separate features on the important designers/couturiers of the 20th century. A historical review of fashion is presented at the beginning of the book and at the start of each of the eleven sections.
Comprehensive!.......2000-10-26
Fashion books tend to focus in on one subject or personality, or sometimes a series of related subjects. Fashion, the Twentieth Century is an entirely comprehensive look into the world of fashion and how it has developed over the past century. The book is divided into two "chapters", and delves into many different sub-topical areas of fashion interest. It focuses on different fashion eras, as well as different popular (and avant-garde!) designers over the past 100 years. Although I tend to enjoy a more single subject type of fashion book, I found this book useful for its depth of many topics, not to mention some interesting and gorgeous fashion photography. As a sort of fashion encyclopedia, it will make a useful addition to any fashionista's library.
Average customer rating:
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McDowell's Directory of Twentieth Century Fashion
Colin McDowell
Manufacturer: Prentice Hall Trade
ProductGroup: Book
Binding: Paperback
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ASIN: 013566845X |
Average customer rating:
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VOGUE: TWENTIETH CENTURY FASHION.
Manufacturer: Carlton
ProductGroup: Book
Binding: Hardcover
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ASIN: 1858685176 |
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